‘A natural paradise’: the south of France’s beautiful blue lagoon

‘A natural paradise’: the south of France’s beautiful blue lagoon With pine-fringed beaches, crystal waters and affordable seafood restaurants, L’Étang de Thau is a hidden gem worth visiting at any time of year W hen I asked Nordine Nid Hsain, the owner of my favourite Parisian bistro, why he sold up and left the capital to join the arty diaspora living in the Mediterranean port of Sète, he said: “What really drew me here was not Sète itself, but the natural paradise of the adjoining Thau lagoon. I love cycling and, after 10 years here, I am still excited to go out every day to explore the bike paths that run around the lagoon.” He added: “There’s always something new to discover – beaches; wetland landscapes; enjoying a plate of freshly harvested oysters at the water’s edge; riding through the vineyards then tasting the wine in the vigneron’s cellar.” It sounded irresistible, and even though I have no plans to up sticks from Paris, I bought a train ticket and arrived in Sète three and half hours later to explore this hidden corner of the Mediterranean. Although officially classed an étang (a lake), Thau is actually a sprawling lagoon, separated from the Mediterranean by the Lido , a narrow 9-mile-long beach. I based myself on the lagoon side, in the quiet port of Mèze, where my no-frills room in the affordable Hôtel du Port had a balcony overlooking a tiny harbour lined with fishing smacks and pleasure boats. The biggest surprise about Mèze is that there are two beaches tucked away in the centre of town, perfect for an undisturbed early dip. Two minutes from the hotel, La Plagette sits beneath the medieval Chapelle des Pénitents, which glows yellow in the morning sun. On the other side of the harbour, La Pinède is a pine-clad stretch of sand, part of La Conque wetlands reserve, that hugs the banks of the lagoon, and is on the walking and cycle route that offers opportunities to spot flamingos. Most of the countryside surrounding Thau is covered with vineyards, the ...