The Good Times Are Over in China’s Liquor Capital
📖 Full Retelling
Once celebrated for its fiery spirits, the town of Maotai has reeled from a bad Chinese economy, changing tastes and a crackdown on boozy official banquets.
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Ms. Yuan used to handle sales from an office at her distillery, where she received a reliably steady flow of orders. Today, she drums up business from a street stall next to a hill decorated with a giant bottle of Moutai. Her distillery’s baijiu bottles — white ceramic with a red label — look almost identical to those of Kweichow Moutai but sell for just a few dollars each.
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